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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.